Homebrewing for Dummies

Topic created · 12 Posts · 574 Views
  • Hey fellas, just wondering if someone would be willing to provide a guide for homebrewing? Even a link would be fine. Looking for a list of items needed, procedure, and materials supplier (BA, BB, carrier oils). Any help would be appreciated.

  • Great topic. I haven’t yet to homebrew but I do know medlabsupply.com & amazon have all the solvents/vials/crimper etc.

    a homebrew section on this site would be great.

    Thank you OP for the great question I too am looking forward to answers

  • https://www.reddit.com/r/steroids/wiki/homebrew/list

    http://www.basskilleronline.com/steroid-powder-calculator.html

    Read these pages first and come back and ask questions.

    Filtering is the hardest part of the job.

    Brewing can be done without a scale using displacement of 0.9ml for every gram of powder.

    Keeping in mind that having large quantities of powder and a milligram scale is gonna be scene by LE as possible trafficking. 3rd degree felony. Laws are set up based on units of delivery. 0.5ml of oil is 1 unit(doesn’t matter concentration of oil), 25mg of powder is 1 unit.

    So if you had 20 vials of oil each containing 2.5 grams of hormone for a total of 50grams, they each are 10ml vials, you would have total oil volume of 200ml which would be 400 units of delivery.

    For powder at 50grams you’d have 50 x 1000 to get 50,000mg divided by 25mg to get 2000 units of delivery. This is why powder can rack up charges big time, why it’s more likely to involve a controlled delivery.

    So only do this if you live by yourself, you never tell your friends, family, girlfriend, wife. Any of them see you do this they could rat you out. All of your supplies are considered paraphernalia and go in the charges against you.

    The other problem as of late is US customs. If you’re gonna run into trouble it’s gonna be international. This is where they open packs and inspect. Domestic sources that know what they’re doing send 2-3 day delivery not allowing enough time to mess with your packs.

    Rule is never sign for a pack, never let the postman see you grab a pack. If they request you sign for an international package of raws, you simply walk away and don’t say anything. You’re busted based on what is in your possession and whether you opened the pack meaning you have knowledge of what is in the pack.

  • [quote=“DEX” pid=‘87193’ dateline=‘1586862172’]
    https://www.reddit.com/r/steroids/wiki/homebrew/list

    http://www.basskilleronline.com/steroid-powder-calculator.html

    Read these pages first and come back and ask questions.

    Filtering is the hardest part of the job.

    Brewing can be done without a scale using displacement of 0.9ml for every gram of powder.

    Keeping in mind that having large quantities of powder and a milligram scale is gonna be scene by LE as possible trafficking. 3rd degree felony. Laws are set up based on units of delivery. 0.5ml of oil is 1 unit(doesn’t matter concentration of oil), 25mg of powder is 1 unit.

    So if you had 20 vials of oil each containing 2.5 grams of hormone for a total of 50grams, they each are 10ml vials, you would have total oil volume of 200ml which would be 400 units of delivery.

    For powder at 50grams you’d have 50 x 1000 to get 50,000mg divided by 25mg to get 2000 units of delivery. This is why powder can rack up charges big time, why it’s more likely to involve a controlled delivery.

    So only do this if you live by yourself, you never tell your friends, family, girlfriend, wife. Any of them see you do this they could rat you out. All of your supplies are considered paraphernalia and go in the charges against you.

    The other problem as of late is US customs. If you’re gonna run into trouble it’s gonna be international. This is where they open packs and inspect. Domestic sources that know what they’re doing send 2-3 day delivery not allowing enough time to mess with your packs.

    Rule is never sign for a pack, never let the postman see you grab a pack. If they request you sign for an international package of raws, you simply walk away and don’t say anything. You’re busted based on what is in your possession and whether you opened the pack meaning you have knowledge of what is in the pack.
    [/quote]

    Thanks, Dex. Figured you’d chime in.

    Seems pretty straight forward but I do have a question about sterilization when using a bottle top filter. What is the best method for sterilizing the vacuum pump and tubing? Should this be done by isopropyl alcohol for a specific duration of time?

    Also, what is a good temperature to use to dissolve powders? Is 140F sufficient? The link states that you don’t want to overheat the oils.

    One last question. Can most carrier oils be used interchangeably?

  • [quote=“BigBoyToy” pid=‘87227’ dateline=‘1586889937’]
    [quote=“DEX” pid=‘87193’ dateline=‘1586862172’]
    https://www.reddit.com/r/steroids/wiki/homebrew/list

    http://www.basskilleronline.com/steroid-powder-calculator.html

    Read these pages first and come back and ask questions.

    Filtering is the hardest part of the job.

    Brewing can be done without a scale using displacement of 0.9ml for every gram of powder.

    Keeping in mind that having large quantities of powder and a milligram scale is gonna be scene by LE as possible trafficking. 3rd degree felony. Laws are set up based on units of delivery. 0.5ml of oil is 1 unit(doesn’t matter concentration of oil), 25mg of powder is 1 unit.

    So if you had 20 vials of oil each containing 2.5 grams of hormone for a total of 50grams, they each are 10ml vials, you would have total oil volume of 200ml which would be 400 units of delivery.

    For powder at 50grams you’d have 50 x 1000 to get 50,000mg divided by 25mg to get 2000 units of delivery. This is why powder can rack up charges big time, why it’s more likely to involve a controlled delivery.

    So only do this if you live by yourself, you never tell your friends, family, girlfriend, wife. Any of them see you do this they could rat you out. All of your supplies are considered paraphernalia and go in the charges against you.

    The other problem as of late is US customs. If you’re gonna run into trouble it’s gonna be international. This is where they open packs and inspect. Domestic sources that know what they’re doing send 2-3 day delivery not allowing enough time to mess with your packs.

    Rule is never sign for a pack, never let the postman see you grab a pack. If they request you sign for an international package of raws, you simply walk away and don’t say anything. You’re busted based on what is in your possession and whether you opened the pack meaning you have knowledge of what is in the pack.
    [/quote]

    Thanks, Dex. Figured you’d chime in.

    Seems pretty straight forward but I do have a question about sterilization when using a bottle top filter. What is the best method for sterilizing the vacuum pump and tubing? Should this be done by isopropyl alcohol for a specific duration of time?

    Also, what is a good temperature to use to dissolve powders? Is 140F sufficient? The link states that you don’t want to overheat the oils.

    One last question. Can most carrier oils be used interchangeably?
    [/quote]

    You don’t need to sterilize the pump and tubing for a standard bottle top set up.

    140F should be fine, tbh I never set my heat to a specific temp but low and slow is better imo.

    Some tried and true carrier oils are grapeseed, MCT, safflower, and castor. I use thinner oils for shorter esters and thicker oils for longer esters.

  • [quote=“BigBoyToy” pid=‘87227’ dateline=‘1586889937’]

    Seems pretty straight forward but I do have a question about sterilization when using a bottle top filter. What is the best method for sterilizing the vacuum pump and tubing? Should this be done by isopropyl alcohol for a specific duration of time?

    Also, what is a good temperature to use to dissolve powders? Is 140F sufficient? The link states that you don’t want to overheat the oils.

    One last question. Can most carrier oils be used interchangeably?
    [/quote]

    The vacuum pump doesn’t need to be sterilized. The tubing could be soaked in isopropyl alcohol just like your rubber stoppers and air dried.

    I use a candle warmer. What I do is set my beaker on the candle warmer and let it heat up the oil, then I add my powder based on displacement of 0.9ml/gram. Let that dissolve in the heat that is no higher than 145-ish. Cover it with sterilized tin foil. Some esters will take longer to dissolve. Once I’m done then I add my BB, and BA, but I try to add the least amount of these. So for me nothing more than 10% BB and 1% BA, I would prefer to lower the concentration of the hormone and inject more oil than have these nasty solvents in my brew.

    GSO and MCT are readily available and work great. MCT cost almost double what GSO cost. Most everyone likes their GSO brews and report no pip. Don’t need to go exotic, you can get a big bottle of GSO for dirt cheap, but I would go ahead and order a sterilized filtered bottle online for a little more money for the peace of mind.

    Viscosity of oils is important. MCT has a lower viscosity than GSO and will filter faster. I actually brew with Mig840 that is a lot lower viscosity because filtering is the biggest part of the job, if you can speed that up it makes the day go a lot faster.

    Crashing vials are no big deal, you warm them and inject. I’d rather have a vial crash then a vial with 25% BB and 2% BA. Of course you can also dilute it out with more oil and inject more oil.

  • Some great info here love it! Thanks

  • [quote=“BigBoyToy” pid=‘87181’ dateline=‘1586834640’]
    Hey fellas, just wondering if someone would be willing to provide a guide for homebrewing? Even a link would be fine. Looking for a list of items needed, procedure, and materials supplier (BA, BB, carrier oils). Any help would be appreciated.
    [/quote]

    I was just told via Mod Mail a homebrew section is coming soon. Couple of months they said. In the mean time, I took the liberty to write out a VERY GENERAL/ VERY LOOSE guide for you.

    Email is on my profile if you need very specific info.

    Homebrew List (*= optional)

    Beaker
    *Hot Plate/Stirrer
    *Stir Bar
    *Stir Bar Retrieval Tool
    *Scale (.01 readability preferably up to whatever size you need for max weight)
    *Weigh Boats
    Media Bottles
    *Vials
    *Stoppers
    *Crimp Caps
    Crimper
    *Pipettes
    *Pipette
    Filters with PTFE/nylon membrane (avoid PES) (Bottle top or syringe or capsule)
    *Graduated Cylinder
    *Big Syringes
    *Dispenser Pump
    *Autoclave
    *Brake Bleeder/hose
    *Vacuum Pump/hose
    *Peristaltic Pump
    *Lab Stand
    *Glass Stir Rods
    Benzyl Benzoate
    Benzyl Alcohol
    *Guaiacol
    *Ethyl Oleate
    ISO Alcohol
    Carrier Oil
    Raws

    A decent and efficient home brew set up will cost you about $600 without a clave. A pro set up to source you are looking at about $10K in equipment give or take.

    Process in a nutshell:

    You want to end up with the closest thing to sterile you can get. Aseptic technique is a must. So, clean everything and prep your glass and stoppers accordingly.
    There are a lot of way people go about doing this. Autoclaves are the best and safest. Pressure cookers are a step down. Dry oven heat can be used also but so you want your gear glass where you por roast goes? So get proper equipment.
    You will want to sterilize your media bottles, vials, anything touching the brew after the filter must be insanely clean. If you filter into a media bottle, the bottle needs to be sterile. If you put into vials after this (some do not) then the vials and stoppers need to be sterilized. Based on the equipment you are using the instructions for this will vary as will what people will tell you. I am a fan of more is better. If you will be using mom’s kitchen oven I recommend max heat for 3 hours after a wash in non-residual laboratory detergent and a double rinse in distilled water then an alcohol dip and drain, then the oven. Items are typically arranged upside down on a stainless steel baking sheet. Flame on. If using a pressure cooker then do that then dry them via oven. Autoclave, well, run the cycle and leave in the autoclave bag until ready for use. Remember, the minute you expose a “sterile” item to air, then it is no longer sterile. Once you have a chosen technique and believe whatever steps you read on the internet get to cleaning/sterilizing your glass.

    Plastic and rubber can be claved or alcohol soaked and dried. Both are common practices. Obviously I would prefer everyone that does this have and use a clave. Steam clave I might add, not a dry clave.

    Next thing I would do while the glass is getting sterile, is clean your work area. Cavicide wipes or bleach or iso alcohol is used for this commonly. Whatever you use make sure it is completely dry or you risk ruining your brew.
    Glass is getting sterile, work area is clean. Time to assemble your work station. Have a spot lined out for weighing, a spot for mixing, a spot for filtering and bottling, and then a spot for transferring to vials if you plan on doing that.

    Using a clean/sterile beaker place on your scale and tare. Add powder you need. Measure and add BB and BA you need. Measure and add oil. People have 100 ways to do this. I found that for me the order is not of significance. You can measure liquids with syringes, pipettes, graduated cylinders, etc.
    After you have your components together the mix needs to be stirred until it reaches solution. Some use heat, others don’t. Some stir by hand, some use a magnetic stir bar. Some say heat degrades hormones, some argue. My purpose is not to tell you what is right. Heat will assist the mixture to go into solution faster. Use it or not, up to you.
    Once you have a mix that is in solution you need to filter this and collect the filtered liquid. Using a sterile container post filter is the way to do this. Make sure you have a sterile cap for this container or a sterile pump to attach to the container. Filter the oil into the container and cap it or add the pump on top. If using syringe filters/caulk gun method you will draw the solution into the syringe then add the filter with sterile needle attached and use that to fill the sterile container of your choosing.

    To be more specific I would have to know EXACTLY what kind of set up you have and then I could give more of a direct approach unique to your situation.

  • [quote=“CrunchyRice” pid=‘94878’ dateline=‘1595135947’]
    [quote=“BigBoyToy” pid=‘87181’ dateline=‘1586834640’]
    Hey fellas, just wondering if someone would be willing to provide a guide for homebrewing? Even a link would be fine. Looking for a list of items needed, procedure, and materials supplier (BA, BB, carrier oils). Any help would be appreciated.
    [/quote]

    I was just told via Mod Mail a homebrew section is coming soon. Couple of months they said. In the mean time, I took the liberty to write out a VERY GENERAL/ VERY LOOSE guide for you.

    Email is on my profile if you need very specific info.

    Homebrew List (*= optional)

    Beaker
    *Hot Plate/Stirrer
    *Stir Bar
    *Stir Bar Retrieval Tool
    *Scale (.01 readability preferably up to whatever size you need for max weight)
    *Weigh Boats
    Media Bottles
    *Vials
    *Stoppers
    *Crimp Caps
    Crimper
    *Pipettes
    *Pipette
    Filters with PTFE/nylon membrane (avoid PES) (Bottle top or syringe or capsule)
    *Graduated Cylinder
    *Big Syringes
    *Dispenser Pump
    *Autoclave
    *Brake Bleeder/hose
    *Vacuum Pump/hose
    *Peristaltic Pump
    *Lab Stand
    *Glass Stir Rods
    Benzyl Benzoate
    Benzyl Alcohol
    *Guaiacol
    *Ethyl Oleate
    ISO Alcohol
    Carrier Oil
    Raws

    A decent and efficient home brew set up will cost you about $600 without a clave. A pro set up to source you are looking at about $10K in equipment give or take.

    Process in a nutshell:

    You want to end up with the closest thing to sterile you can get. Aseptic technique is a must. So, clean everything and prep your glass and stoppers accordingly.
    There are a lot of way people go about doing this. Autoclaves are the best and safest. Pressure cookers are a step down. Dry oven heat can be used also but so you want your gear glass where you por roast goes? So get proper equipment.
    You will want to sterilize your media bottles, vials, anything touching the brew after the filter must be insanely clean. If you filter into a media bottle, the bottle needs to be sterile. If you put into vials after this (some do not) then the vials and stoppers need to be sterilized. Based on the equipment you are using the instructions for this will vary as will what people will tell you. I am a fan of more is better. If you will be using mom’s kitchen oven I recommend max heat for 3 hours after a wash in non-residual laboratory detergent and a double rinse in distilled water then an alcohol dip and drain, then the oven. Items are typically arranged upside down on a stainless steel baking sheet. Flame on. If using a pressure cooker then do that then dry them via oven. Autoclave, well, run the cycle and leave in the autoclave bag until ready for use. Remember, the minute you expose a “sterile” item to air, then it is no longer sterile. Once you have a chosen technique and believe whatever steps you read on the internet get to cleaning/sterilizing your glass.

    Plastic and rubber can be claved or alcohol soaked and dried. Both are common practices. Obviously I would prefer everyone that does this have and use a clave. Steam clave I might add, not a dry clave.

    Next thing I would do while the glass is getting sterile, is clean your work area. Cavicide wipes or bleach or iso alcohol is used for this commonly. Whatever you use make sure it is completely dry or you risk ruining your brew.
    Glass is getting sterile, work area is clean. Time to assemble your work station. Have a spot lined out for weighing, a spot for mixing, a spot for filtering and bottling, and then a spot for transferring to vials if you plan on doing that.

    Using a clean/sterile beaker place on your scale and tare. Add powder you need. Measure and add BB and BA you need. Measure and add oil. People have 100 ways to do this. I found that for me the order is not of significance. You can measure liquids with syringes, pipettes, graduated cylinders, etc.
    After you have your components together the mix needs to be stirred until it reaches solution. Some use heat, others don’t. Some stir by hand, some use a magnetic stir bar. Some say heat degrades hormones, some argue. My purpose is not to tell you what is right. Heat will assist the mixture to go into solution faster. Use it or not, up to you.
    Once you have a mix that is in solution you need to filter this and collect the filtered liquid. Using a sterile container post filter is the way to do this. Make sure you have a sterile cap for this container or a sterile pump to attach to the container. Filter the oil into the container and cap it or add the pump on top. If using syringe filters/caulk gun method you will draw the solution into the syringe then add the filter with sterile needle attached and use that to fill the sterile container of your choosing.

    To be more specific I would have to know EXACTLY what kind of set up you have and then I could give more of a direct approach unique to your situation.
    [/quote]

    That is a beautiful post

  • [quote=“Bcoolhunnybunny” pid=‘94898’ dateline=‘1595176174’]
    [quote=“CrunchyRice” pid=‘94878’ dateline=‘1595135947’]
    [quote=“BigBoyToy” pid=‘87181’ dateline=‘1586834640’]
    Hey fellas, just wondering if someone would be willing to provide a guide for homebrewing? Even a link would be fine. Looking for a list of items needed, procedure, and materials supplier (BA, BB, carrier oils). Any help would be appreciated.
    [/quote]

    I was just told via Mod Mail a homebrew section is coming soon. Couple of months they said. In the mean time, I took the liberty to write out a VERY GENERAL/ VERY LOOSE guide for you.

    Email is on my profile if you need very specific info.

    Homebrew List (*= optional)

    Beaker
    *Hot Plate/Stirrer
    *Stir Bar
    *Stir Bar Retrieval Tool
    *Scale (.01 readability preferably up to whatever size you need for max weight)
    *Weigh Boats
    Media Bottles
    *Vials
    *Stoppers
    *Crimp Caps
    Crimper
    *Pipettes
    *Pipette
    Filters with PTFE/nylon membrane (avoid PES) (Bottle top or syringe or capsule)
    *Graduated Cylinder
    *Big Syringes
    *Dispenser Pump
    *Autoclave
    *Brake Bleeder/hose
    *Vacuum Pump/hose
    *Peristaltic Pump
    *Lab Stand
    *Glass Stir Rods
    Benzyl Benzoate
    Benzyl Alcohol
    *Guaiacol
    *Ethyl Oleate
    ISO Alcohol
    Carrier Oil
    Raws

    A decent and efficient home brew set up will cost you about $600 without a clave. A pro set up to source you are looking at about $10K in equipment give or take.

    Process in a nutshell:

    You want to end up with the closest thing to sterile you can get. Aseptic technique is a must. So, clean everything and prep your glass and stoppers accordingly.
    There are a lot of way people go about doing this. Autoclaves are the best and safest. Pressure cookers are a step down. Dry oven heat can be used also but so you want your gear glass where you por roast goes? So get proper equipment.
    You will want to sterilize your media bottles, vials, anything touching the brew after the filter must be insanely clean. If you filter into a media bottle, the bottle needs to be sterile. If you put into vials after this (some do not) then the vials and stoppers need to be sterilized. Based on the equipment you are using the instructions for this will vary as will what people will tell you. I am a fan of more is better. If you will be using mom’s kitchen oven I recommend max heat for 3 hours after a wash in non-residual laboratory detergent and a double rinse in distilled water then an alcohol dip and drain, then the oven. Items are typically arranged upside down on a stainless steel baking sheet. Flame on. If using a pressure cooker then do that then dry them via oven. Autoclave, well, run the cycle and leave in the autoclave bag until ready for use. Remember, the minute you expose a “sterile” item to air, then it is no longer sterile. Once you have a chosen technique and believe whatever steps you read on the internet get to cleaning/sterilizing your glass.

    Plastic and rubber can be claved or alcohol soaked and dried. Both are common practices. Obviously I would prefer everyone that does this have and use a clave. Steam clave I might add, not a dry clave.

    Next thing I would do while the glass is getting sterile, is clean your work area. Cavicide wipes or bleach or iso alcohol is used for this commonly. Whatever you use make sure it is completely dry or you risk ruining your brew.
    Glass is getting sterile, work area is clean. Time to assemble your work station. Have a spot lined out for weighing, a spot for mixing, a spot for filtering and bottling, and then a spot for transferring to vials if you plan on doing that.

    Using a clean/sterile beaker place on your scale and tare. Add powder you need. Measure and add BB and BA you need. Measure and add oil. People have 100 ways to do this. I found that for me the order is not of significance. You can measure liquids with syringes, pipettes, graduated cylinders, etc.
    After you have your components together the mix needs to be stirred until it reaches solution. Some use heat, others don’t. Some stir by hand, some use a magnetic stir bar. Some say heat degrades hormones, some argue. My purpose is not to tell you what is right. Heat will assist the mixture to go into solution faster. Use it or not, up to you.
    Once you have a mix that is in solution you need to filter this and collect the filtered liquid. Using a sterile container post filter is the way to do this. Make sure you have a sterile cap for this container or a sterile pump to attach to the container. Filter the oil into the container and cap it or add the pump on top. If using syringe filters/caulk gun method you will draw the solution into the syringe then add the filter with sterile needle attached and use that to fill the sterile container of your choosing.

    To be more specific I would have to know EXACTLY what kind of set up you have and then I could give more of a direct approach unique to your situation.
    [/quote]

    That is a beautiful post
    [/quote]

    Thank you sir. Just remember it is a very general outline.

  • I am curious I had watched a special on a sting done by the DEA they said they tracked him down by purchases. Would buying the glassware, filters, solvents, carrier oils for like 100 grams of powder a year put you on anyone’s radar?

  • [quote=“CrunchyRice” pid=‘94878’ dateline=‘1595135947’]
    [quote=“BigBoyToy” pid=‘87181’ dateline=‘1586834640’]
    Hey fellas, just wondering if someone would be willing to provide a guide for homebrewing? Even a link would be fine. Looking for a list of items needed, procedure, and materials supplier (BA, BB, carrier oils). Any help would be appreciated.
    [/quote]

    I was just told via Mod Mail a homebrew section is coming soon. Couple of months they said. In the mean time, I took the liberty to write out a VERY GENERAL/ VERY LOOSE guide for you.

    Email is on my profile if you need very specific info.

    Homebrew List (*= optional)

    Beaker
    *Hot Plate/Stirrer
    *Stir Bar
    *Stir Bar Retrieval Tool
    *Scale (.01 readability preferably up to whatever size you need for max weight)
    *Weigh Boats
    Media Bottles
    *Vials
    *Stoppers
    *Crimp Caps
    Crimper
    *Pipettes
    *Pipette
    Filters with PTFE/nylon membrane (avoid PES) (Bottle top or syringe or capsule)
    *Graduated Cylinder
    *Big Syringes
    *Dispenser Pump
    *Autoclave
    *Brake Bleeder/hose
    *Vacuum Pump/hose
    *Peristaltic Pump
    *Lab Stand
    *Glass Stir Rods
    Benzyl Benzoate
    Benzyl Alcohol
    *Guaiacol
    *Ethyl Oleate
    ISO Alcohol
    Carrier Oil
    Raws

    A decent and efficient home brew set up will cost you about $600 without a clave. A pro set up to source you are looking at about $10K in equipment give or take.

    Process in a nutshell:

    You want to end up with the closest thing to sterile you can get. Aseptic technique is a must. So, clean everything and prep your glass and stoppers accordingly.
    There are a lot of way people go about doing this. Autoclaves are the best and safest. Pressure cookers are a step down. Dry oven heat can be used also but so you want your gear glass where you por roast goes? So get proper equipment.
    You will want to sterilize your media bottles, vials, anything touching the brew after the filter must be insanely clean. If you filter into a media bottle, the bottle needs to be sterile. If you put into vials after this (some do not) then the vials and stoppers need to be sterilized. Based on the equipment you are using the instructions for this will vary as will what people will tell you. I am a fan of more is better. If you will be using mom’s kitchen oven I recommend max heat for 3 hours after a wash in non-residual laboratory detergent and a double rinse in distilled water then an alcohol dip and drain, then the oven. Items are typically arranged upside down on a stainless steel baking sheet. Flame on. If using a pressure cooker then do that then dry them via oven. Autoclave, well, run the cycle and leave in the autoclave bag until ready for use. Remember, the minute you expose a “sterile” item to air, then it is no longer sterile. Once you have a chosen technique and believe whatever steps you read on the internet get to cleaning/sterilizing your glass.

    Plastic and rubber can be claved or alcohol soaked and dried. Both are common practices. Obviously I would prefer everyone that does this have and use a clave. Steam clave I might add, not a dry clave.

    Next thing I would do while the glass is getting sterile, is clean your work area. Cavicide wipes or bleach or iso alcohol is used for this commonly. Whatever you use make sure it is completely dry or you risk ruining your brew.
    Glass is getting sterile, work area is clean. Time to assemble your work station. Have a spot lined out for weighing, a spot for mixing, a spot for filtering and bottling, and then a spot for transferring to vials if you plan on doing that.

    Using a clean/sterile beaker place on your scale and tare. Add powder you need. Measure and add BB and BA you need. Measure and add oil. People have 100 ways to do this. I found that for me the order is not of significance. You can measure liquids with syringes, pipettes, graduated cylinders, etc.
    After you have your components together the mix needs to be stirred until it reaches solution. Some use heat, others don’t. Some stir by hand, some use a magnetic stir bar. Some say heat degrades hormones, some argue. My purpose is not to tell you what is right. Heat will assist the mixture to go into solution faster. Use it or not, up to you.
    Once you have a mix that is in solution you need to filter this and collect the filtered liquid. Using a sterile container post filter is the way to do this. Make sure you have a sterile cap for this container or a sterile pump to attach to the container. Filter the oil into the container and cap it or add the pump on top. If using syringe filters/caulk gun method you will draw the solution into the syringe then add the filter with sterile needle attached and use that to fill the sterile container of your choosing.

    To be more specific I would have to know EXACTLY what kind of set up you have and then I could give more of a direct approach unique to your situation.
    [/quote]

    All I have to say is Wow!

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